Two Things I’ll Remember Most

The spectators at these Games were the best of any I can remember. Every event was a sellout, but it was more than that. The level of enthusiasm and noise at every event I went to was unmatched in my previous 10 Olympics. Even the morning sessions at swimming and track and field, when no medals were at stake, felt like a World Series Game 7.

Singular moments from other Olympic Games could rise to that level. Usain Bolt in the 100 in Beijing 2008 and in Rio 2016 come to mind. Every fan, no matter the country, seemed to be rooting for one man.

Simone Biles has a similar rooting section that defies country borders. Michael Phelps could make a swimming venue shake.

But for consistency and decibel level, Paris wins. The stands, of course, were full of the French, and their athletes received the loudest ovations and the most encouragement. But fans from other countries made themselves heard too.

The Americans were out in full-throated force; they seemed to take silver on the noise-making scale. For me, Brazil was next, which could have been a consequence of the events I was covering — women’s gymnastics, track and field, the women’s soccer final. But very impressive considering how far they had to travel.

Countries with far fewer miles to cover round out the list: Germany, Britain and Italy.

I wondered many times if my perception was skewed by two consecutive Olympics with no fans at all. That’s not it, I’ve decided, although the joyous crowds may have stemmed a lot from their desire to escape a tumultuous world.

Catherine Porter, a colleague from our Paris bureau, wrote in The Times from the French perspective, “As Paris bids au revoir to the Olympic Games, many are reluctant to let go of its magic: of the adrenaline-fueled excitement, of the party free of political debate, of the sense of time deliciously suspended, like the glowing Olympic cauldron that has hovered wistfully over the city every night.”

I’ll miss that excitement and the suspension of time.

PARIS BUILT NO permanent venues for these Games, opting instead to show off what it already had. It used a grand palace for fencing and taekwondo. In the shadow of one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks, it staged beach volleyball.

Alongside the crowds, these will be what I’ll remember most.

I was desperate to see fencing in the lavish Grand Palais, with its soaring and majestic glass ceiling. My schedule for swimming, gymnastics and track and field didn’t allow it. But when things opened up for me in the second week, I had the chance to go. By then it was playing host to taekwondo, so I went less to see the competition and more to take in the venue and maybe make a once-in-a-lifetime photo.

The organizers made the most of the dramatic setting: Athletes were introduced atop one of its grand staircases and descended to battle in the Nave. As venues go, this has no rival, and that list includes some pretty awesome ones in China in 2008. There, the Bird’s Nest and the Water Cube are the best of the new Olympic construction. The Grand Palais also edges out seeing the end of the cycling road race at the base of China’s Great Wall.

A fitting close to the Paris version of Eat@Joes is to hang out at the Eiffel Tower. Similar to wanting to go to the Grand Palais, I wanted simply to see it. I wasn’t covering beach volleyball. I went on a clear evening and saw the sunset change the sky until the tower’s lights came on. The afternoon of the next day I noticed there were more clouds in the sky and thought that the sunset could be even more remarkable. So I went again and Mother Nature didn’t disappoint.

I went a third time on Sunday evening. This time with Dawn and Bedel to take a guided tour. Did you know it was originally painted red? No one died in the constructing of it, even though no harnesses or nets were used. One more: it gets painted every seven years by 25 people taking them one-and-a-half years to complete. All by brush.

Having to feed the beast that is this blog makes me extra attentive, extra adventurous — and extra tired! I’d have it no other way. I so appreciate you all eating at joes.

What may have been the best Games I’ve covered made it all the more fun to share them with you.

Au revoir!